As September advances into Autumn-proper this warming lunch or supper of tender lamb’s kidneys and mushrooms on chunks of warm bread becomes particularly appealing. It’s pretty filling so the quantities below should serve four.
8 lamb’s kidneys, halved and with the white core cut out
75ml marsala, madeira or sherry
Melt most of the butter in a frying pan. Season the kidneys and cook in the butter until brown all over. Don’t cook them beyond that, though. You want the kidneys as tender as possible and a little pink inside.
Remove the kidneys with a slotted spoon, cover in a bowl and keep warm. Sauté the mushrooms in the same pan and the kidney’s juices. Add them to the kidneys.
Pour the cider into the pan and turn the heat up so that it bubbles and reduces by about a third. Add the last bit of butter and the marsala (or whatever you’re using). Taste for seasoning.
Pour the sauce over the kidneys and mushrooms. Chop some tarragon over and then serve the whole lot on warm – possibly, buttered – bread, toast or brioche.