‘Kipper’ used to be a verb rather than a noun; referring to the process of butterflying, salting and smoking fish be it herring, trout or salmon. Along the way the term became synonymous with herrings and to us that is what a kipper is.
Britain’s extensive herring industry ran the length of the east coast from Scotland in the summer through to Lowestoft in November as the fish made the journey south. That industry declined through the World War years and as a result Britain has less native herring now.
All kippers need cooking as they are only cold-smoked. They are good grilled, fried or – as here – jugged.
Put the kipper(s) in a jug of boiling water with their heads off and tails upwards . Let them stand somewhere warm for 7 minutes or so depending on size. Drain well and serve with pepper and lots and lots of butter.